NAGAOKA TENMANGU
長岡天満宮
Nagaoka Tenmangu 長岡天満宮
Nagaoka Tenmangu enshrines the spirit of Sugawara Michizane (845-903)who was a scholar and an adviser to Emperor Uda in the Heian Period. Michizane was a prominent politician and scholar of Chinese literature who was exiled by his rival. Michizane visited this place before his exile. Upon his death he was deified with the name of Tenjin and is respected as the deity of learning. Today there are about 12,000 Tenjin shrines in Japan.
Nagaoka Tenmangu is most known for it’s entrance path leading to the main building which is lined with hedges of Kirishima azalea trees which are said to be 170 years old. This crimson azalea tunnel is in full bloom in late April. This shrine receives large amounts of visitors in this period.
Upon arriving at the shrine it is impossible not to notice Hachijogaike Pond. This pond is named after Prince Hachijo-no-miya Toshitada-shinno, who created it in 1638. This area is a great place to picnic under the cherry blossoms in spring.
The grounds of this shrine are typically calm and peaceful to wander through. In late winter/ early spring visitors can enjoy wonderful views when over 300 plum trees are in bloom. Though the majority of these trees are located in a grove area behind the main hall of the shrine, they can also be found scattered around the property as well.
Cattle have a special significance at this shrine. It is said that after Sugawara Michizane passed away, the ox pulling the carriage bearing his remains suddenly laid down in the road and would not move any further. Sugawara’s followers felt this was a sign that he wanted to be buried here, and quickly buried him at that spot. This has since become the site of the the main hall of Dazaifu Tenmangu in Kyushu.
Today, Tenmangu shrines across Japan display cattle statue on their grounds which are always depicted lying down like the ox from the legend. People rub the statues for good luck in places related to their wishes, such as rubbing its head if you have headaches, or its stomach if you are pregnant.
There are also several smaller shrines located on the grounds which venerate other Shinto deities. Among them is the well-known Inari shrine, where visitors pray for a success in business endeavors.
Not to be missed is an autumnal garden completed in the precincts in 2007. When you sit down in the garden and gaze out at the waterfall, large and small autumn leaves float across the scenery. In addition, a very impressive large stone bridge weighing about 2 tons extends across the Benten Pond. Visitors are encouraged to cross the bridge and visit the small shrine on the hillside.
Sugawara Michizane is one of the best known Japanese historical figures and also best known for being the “god of leading.” Michizane was an extremely talented child and dubbed as a child prodigy. At five, he composed a Waka (Japanese verse), and at 11, he created his first Chinese character poem (Kanshi). He received the Master of History and Literature while suceeding in an extremely difficult government official certification test.
Michizane was a competent civil servant and because of that he became the victim of slander. His was unfairly exiled by his political rivals, Fujiwara Tokihira and demoted to Dazaifu in Kyushu where he died. Shortly after his death a series of severe thunderstorms and earthquakes shook the capital. There was a rumor that all those natural disasters were thought to be Michizane’s vengeful spirit after his death in exile.
20 years after his death, the Imperial Court tried to console Michizane’s soul by giving him the posthumous name of “Karai Tenjin ”(God of Fire and Thunder) and building the shrine called Kitano Tenmangu. The Imperial Court also revoked his demotion and restored his official rank. Michizane is now regarded as the deity of learning and is extremely popular with students preparing for entrance examinations.
Michizane loved plum trees very much and one tree. There is a famous poem written by Michizane when he was demoted and transferred to Dazaifu, parting reluctantly from the beloved plum flowers in his garden.
「東風(こち)吹かば 匂い起こせよ 梅の花 主なしとて 春な忘れそ」
「Kochifukaba nioiokoseyo umenohana arujinasitote harunawasureso」
“Whenever the east wind blows, my dear plum blossoms remember spring, even ifyour master won’t be here.”
This is called tobiume or flying plum tree, is said to have followed him from Kyoto to Dazaifu in Kyushu.
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